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Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1. Previous page. Next page. Customers who bought this item also bought. Logitech Wireless Trackball M Ergonomic. No customer reviews. How does Amazon calculate star ratings? The machine learned model takes into account factors including: the age of a review, helpfulness votes by customers and whether the reviews are from verified purchases. Review this product Share your thoughts with other customers.
Write a customer review. Most helpful customer reviews on Amazon. Verified Purchase. They seem to use this Omron microswitch in all of their products or at least in all of them I've opened.
Sadly they aren't the most reliable devices but the decision wasn't in my hands. Replacing them is easy enough if you have de soldering skills and the proper tools. The easiest way I've found to get the bad switch out is to simply crush carefully!
Clean the holes out thoroughly and then solder the new switch in place paying attention to the orientation. If you haven't lost any parts along the way it is simply a matter of re-assembling and you should be good to go. This type of switch works for left or right buttons but I've never seen a right one go bad yet.
I downrated this product simply because this suppler screwed up the order and lost it completely. After a long time I requested a refund and got it. Then two or three days later the package showed up unannounced. In the mean time I had ordered the same switch from a different suppler so now I'll have to go through the hassle of returning them when THAT package eventually shows up. I have a Logitech Marble FX that is maybe 20 years old.
It uses a Matsushita microswitch that has exactly the same dimensions as the D2FC, with one exception: the two holes through the body of the microswitch are 2. The holes are largely a holdover from the larger versions of similar switches, like you probably have in several of your appliances. For an inch-long switch, mounting it via two screws makes sense.
For a 0. Mice either mount it using only the PC board pins, or put a clip around the entire body The right button and only the right button mounts the switch with two plastic pins going through the holes in the switch. I didn't want an older button to die from desoldering and resoldering. So, I ordered the Omrons to experiment, see if I could enlarge the holes. It turns out you can. Run it fast, use a sharp titanium bit, and feed straight. Turns out there's enough plastic in the vicinity of the mounting holes that enlarging them to 2mm does not break through and let plastic dust into the switch or anything.
My trackball lives again. And I have spare switches left. I have an original Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3. This is where clicking the button once actually sends out two mouse click signals.
This renders the mouse practically useless. This particular mouse cannot easily be bought anymore, and even though there is a new remade version available from Microsoft its not the same. Swapping one of these for the left mouse button solved the problem. It dropped right in and as far as I can tell this new switch behaves just as it should.
This is great, now I have 5 more on reserve so I should be able to keep this mouse going until it crumbles apart under my hand. There are plenty of videos showing how to swap the switch, but it is pretty straightforward really.
Just be methodical when you take it apart and note how everything fits so you can reassemble it easily. You do have to take apart pretty much everything to get at the left button switch, and you need some decent soldering tools and skills and desoldering to get the old one out but its not too hard.
Had the dreaded double click on my Logitech mice. I really don't like the newer Logitech mice so fixing these older ones was the solution to keep them going. Had to dial up the temp on the Hakko for the hard Logitech solder though. Make sure to use flux so that the solder flows well. Happy to have the mice working as they used to.
One of the switches after install has become sticky so it does not have the same subtle click and requires more finger pressure to activate. Will have to go in and remove and replace that one. A good pair of tweezers is highly recommended. Of course, if you're used to soldering electronic stuff, you probably won't find these unusually small. The first mouse took about an hour to futz with it, partly because the groove that holds the front end of the spring in place was really, really, really hard to see.
Once I got it right, the second mouse took less than 5 minutes to replace the spring from start to finish. If only Logitech would use a better spring to begin with Go to Amazon. Back to top. Get to Know Us. Shopbop Designer Fashion Brands. Alexa Actionable Analytics for the Web. DPReview Digital Photography.
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The lowest-priced brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging where packaging is applicable. Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See details for additional description. Direct replacement for the Logitech M Couch mouse micro switch left and right.
Inside the Omron D2FC-F-7N microswitch
When my ancient Logitech G mouse stopped working properly, I followed these helpful instructions to bring it back to life. The following switches will not work as the leaf spring is not positioned correctly in one of the notches:. Disclaimer: If your mouse has been in use for several years, you should seriously consider buying a replacement switch. I believe you could desolder the switch from the top by cutting it into pieces first the plastic is rather soft. I was only able to repair my mouse because I had another broken one from which I stole a leaf spring from the less-used right switch.